My angelfish is dying! Thread starter angelmist83 Start date Apr 6, JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Apr 6, 5 0 0 38 Lufkin, Texas Visit site. I used to be a member here but lost my old user name password and frankly didn't have the time to bother looking for them because of this sudden emergency I'm soo distraught I don't know what to do! I have two adult angelfish that I have had for about two and a half years now. One of them, named "monster" is very sick and dying right now before my eyes!
I am so attacehd to these fish I don't know what I will do!!! He seems to be having a lot of problems breathing and when I had the filter running he was swirling around in the current, he isn't swimming very well, not moving much, and even was floating around on his sides, not straight up like he is supposed to swim.
I turned off the filter and put in some melafix I'm sure that won't do much I will be eternally in your debt I just caught this about 5 minutes ago, yesterday monster seemed fine. I'm willing to do anything to try to save him I have never been so distraught over a fish before but I am SO attached to my angels I'm in tears right now please please someone Nov 15, 1, 0 0 Vancouver, Canada www.
Thank you for replying Diana. Cycling allows good bacteria that turn ammonia into nitrites which is less toxic to thrive in a tank. Excessive water changes and irregular maintenance routines are normally driven by two primary factors, namely: [2].
If the filter stops working, pollutants will saturate the water. If your fish were happy and healthy when they came from the store, but they keep dying, you can use the following steps to prevent additional deaths:. First of all, you should acclimate all your angelfish before you add them to the tank. You can do this by floating their bags in the tank for half an hour while also adding small amounts of water from the tank into their bags.
This allows them to grow accustomed to the parameters in their new environment, not just the temperature but also the pH and hardness. You can also use the drip method, as described in the following Youtube video:. It would help if you kept all new fish in quarantine before you add them to the water. This gives you time to identify signs of any diseases and parasites they may have. You should also thoroughly scrub every object before adding it to the tank to prevent it from contaminating the water.
Follow the new fish for at least three days. If you notice signs of disease, such as sluggish behavior, change in color, or if they are hiding and not eating, you should consider keeping them in the quarantine tank where they can stay until they recover. If your fish are sick, it is usually necessary to elevate the temperature by two to three degrees F and use aquarium salt to combat infections. Add one tablespoon for every five gallons of water.
You should also consult a vet to pick the proper medication for your fish. You cannot prevent your fish from dying unless you maintain the right conditions in their tank.
That includes:. I love this kit because it lasts for hundreds of measures and comes with comprehensive instructions.
Temperature fluctuations can quickly stress fish and weaken their immune system. Frankly, that is the only device that prevented this from happening. There is also likely chloramine in your tap water, which you probably don't have a test kit for. A dechlorinator will take care of both. No, you don't need to uproot your grass carpet to clean the gravel.
Just hover the gravel vac slightly above the grass. High enough to not suck up the grass, but low enough to where it still sucks up the gunk between the grass blades. I know you won't get all of the debris. The grass itself will help process a good amount of the waste, so it will help.
But think of the grass as secondary, and you performing routine cleanings as primary. What kind of grass is it? Is it a short grass, like dwarf hairgrass, or something longer? I know PetSmart carries this one grass that can reach 18 inches, but they also carry dwarf hairgrass, which grows to like 3 inches max.
I have both kinds one kind in one tank, and the other in a different tank and I've found that I can actually touch the grass with my gravel vac and it doesn't uproot. Byron Fish Guru Tank of the Month! But there are some other issues here that need addressing, moving forward. You asked about the one angelfish in a columnar 30 gallon Angelfish are by nature shoaling fish that live in small groups; but this requires a much larger tank, and there are other issues I won't get into; I wouldn't normally suggest one angelfish but as you already have it The clown loach must be returned or given away.
This is also a shoaling fish, and a highly social fish that must have a group of at least five. But as they grow to a foot in length, this also means a very much larger tank.
Left alone the loach will almost certainly bee highly stressed, which means poor health and likely aggressiveness to other fish. An acidic pH is usually soft water though not always, but this seems likely here given the way the pH lowers. You should re-home the mollies, and the guppies for that matter. All livebearers require moderately hard water for important minerals. You can check the GH general or total hardness with your municipal water authority, on their website perhaps.
No point in a test kit unless you have one already for GH as once you know the source water, you work with that. I agree with the info in post 7 so won't repeat. Wow that is a vague plant description on amazon. And it comes as seeds that you have to plant in the aquarium and grow long before you fill it with water, according to the reviews. Especially if you use gravel. Do you use gravel or sand? Ammonia converts to nitrites converts to nitrates. In a cycled tank you will get ammonia and nitrite readings of 0.
But there should be nitrates present. How long has the tank been running? How long has it been exactly? No judgement. It will just help us figure out if you have a stalled or crashed cycle. Water changes can stall a cycle, but you have to do them when you have fish in the tank to keep them healthy. Nitrites should rise and then eventually nitrates will start registering and nitrites will start to drop.
Byron is right. And the clown loach, yeah that is a beautiful fish, but it too needs a shoal, and they get really big. Tbh clowns and angels are probably a good mix. Just not until you get to like gallons, because of their shoaling needs and size full grown.
Three baby angelfish will be fine in an 80 litre 20gallon tank for quite some time and tank size is not what killed them. Can you post a picture of the guppy with the clamped tail? Only feed the fish once every second day for the next few weeks until things settle down.
Do this every day for the next week. Make sure you use a gravel cleaner any time you do a water change. If you have exposed areas of gravel without plants then push the gravel cleaner into the gravel and suck the gunk out. Big water changes dilute nutrients and disease organisms much more effectively than small water changes. However, don't muck about with pH until things settle down.
However, you don't want to get too carried away and squirt half a bottle into the tank. Some dechlorinators only contain Sodium Thiosulphate and you can double or even triple dose without any issues. Other dechlorinators contain things like Aloe Vera and all sorts of weird things that can cause problems if you add excessive amounts.
But normal or double dosing dechlorinators will not cause problems, and a lot of dechlorinators recommend a single dose for chlorine and a double dose for chloramine. If you are in America you probably have chloramine and a chlorine test kit might not pick that up. A way to test for chloramine in tap water is to get a sample of tap water and test it for ammonia. It should show 0 ammonia. Then add a drop of dechlorinator to another sample of tap water and shake it up for a minute.
Test that sample for ammonia, if it shows ammonia then you have chloramine.
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